It had been 117 years since
New England was hit directly by a major hurricane. Most of the
time, such storms moved north offshore past Cape Hatteras before
veering out to sea. The Weather Bureau had come to believe that
hurricanes never hit New England. Alas the experts were proved
wrong on Wednesday, September 21, 1938 when a strong category
3 hurricane (names were applied beginning in 1950) continued
due north at an accelerating speed following a trough of low
pressure near the coast. High pressure over the ocean prevented
a seaward turn. Traveling at 70 mph, the 120 mph winds smashed
without warning into Long Island and proceeded north and northwest
up the Connecticut valley and across Vermont into Canada. A pool
of cold air to the west allowed the hurricane to maintain its
intensity much farther inland than usual. The fast forward speed
enhanced the wind velocities and storm surges east of the track
(Blue Hill Observatory near Boston 186 mph, Mt. Washington 157
mph), and reduced them to the west. Except for flooding rains,
most of the 600+ fatalities and 400+ million (1938) dollars damage
occurred east of the track.
I, age 11, was with my parents
at our summer cottage on Randolph Hill. My father, an astronomer
and physicist, was a self-taught "weather fan." He
realized on that fateful morning that something unusual was impending.
The uncharacteristically high temperature (mid 60's), fitful
gusts of wind from the east and squally bursts of rain with very
small drops convinced him that the hurricane, which he had heard
mentioned on the radio news, was headed our way. Conditions worsened
steadily through the day and the barometer fell precipitously.
He began to worry about the safety of our house, especially when
my mother, resting with a minor ailment, was fascinated as she
watched the windowpane over her bed bowing in and out with the
wind gusts (not a wise observation). He succeeded in closing
and securing the shutters on the east and south windows that
the wind hit unimpeded, blowing across a large open meadow. The
noise was overwhelming, screaming and rattling and roaring through
the trees behind the house. I was both scared and fascinated.
My father estimated the peak wind gusts to be around 90 mph.
The worst was over by around 8 p.m. as the barometer bottomed
out at 29.02 inches and the diminishing wind shifted to the southwest
as the storm center passed about 100 miles to our west. Fortunately
our house suffered no damage, but the region was left without
power for several days.
The next morning dawned clear
and I have never forgotten the sight of Howker Ridge on Mt. Madison;
on large sections all the trees were lying flat. The damage to
the White Mountain forests was appalling, especially in areas
like the Pemigewasset Wilderness nearer to the path of the storm
center. Many trails were so badly damaged that they were never
reopened, including the RMC's Cascade Ravine Trail. The old birch-bark
Perch was destroyed (replaced in 1948 by an open front log shelter).
The Forest Service closed large sections of forest for several
years because of high fire danger in the slash; luckily there
were no serious fires.
We were scheduled to leave Randolph
on September 22 so that my father could meet his first classes
at Princeton. We delayed a day and had to drive west to Burlington
Vermont before we could find an open route south to New Jersey
via the Hudson Valley.