This past winter,
RMC members and friends were treated to a remarkable evening
featuring two of the world's most accomplished climbers. Together,
Dean Potter and Stephanie Davis have an array of mountaineering
firsts to their credit. Dean is the only person to free climb
Yosemite's Half Dome and El Capitan in a single day, and has
a series of daring first solo ascents in Patagonia to his credit.
His partner, Steph Davis, has made numerous first ascents of
major peaks around the world, is the first woman to summit Fitzroy
in Patagonia, and holds the record for the most free-climbing
ascents of El Capitan. Dean has long family roots in Randolph
and Gorham, and both his father Tony and Uncle Bob are Randolph
residents.
This story is from
Yvon Chouinards autobiography, Let My People Go Surfing:
The Education of a Reluctant Businessman, and is reprinted
with permission of Dean and Yvon.Editor.
Zen By Dean Potter
Cold air from the valley drifts
upward. It's predawn, and I've been moving on the Nose of El
Cap through the night, focused on the rock in front of me in
the faint light of my headlamp. Suddenly, I think of how tired
and exposed I am, alone, rope-less, far past any point of retreat.
A surge of panic courses through me. I try to think of the summit,
but that thought is too dangerous.
An image floats into my mind.
I'm following my father in the early morning through a pasture
in the White Mountains in New Hampshire. He strides towards Moose
River, his favorite fishing spot. I'm not even half his height,
and the frosty grass brushes all the way up to my waist.
We reach the river. My dad skips
from rock to rock, downstream to the first hole, and looks back
for me. The water is freezing, and the rocks are covered in slime.
I'm afraid to follow. I burrow painfully through the thickets
of pricker bushes, swamp, and black flies as my father calls
for me. The bugs chase me back to the river's edge, and I timidly
wade in and try to catch up. Tense and anxious, I lose my footing
and fall into the river. I gasp for breath in the icy water but
manage to scramble onto a rock, where I bawl until my father
comes back. "I don't like fishing. I want to go home."
My father shakes his head at
me, and his eyes sparkle. "Dean, put everything aside. There's
nothing to be afraid of, except a little cold water. Just focus
on the next step you are taking. I feel so happy running down
the river, sun reflecting off the water, my body naturally going
where it's supposed to. I almost don't think at all. I just respond
to what's in front of me."
He stops talking and heads downstream
again. We slowly pick our way across the rocks, catching rainbows
and brook trout. The day passes quickly, and my confidence rises.
Soon I'm playing and racing down the rapids with eyes wide and
senses alert, not knowing I've just received my first lesson
in Zen.
The air drifts over my body.
I grasp the immediate. I reach for the next hold.